Montag, 30. März 2020

S01E07 Spindlekopf zum Leiterplatten fräsen

For the english viewers, I have translated the whole text and put it at your disposal here: Please write me a comment how you like the project and what I could do better. Here are the links to the parts: LINKS ------------------------------------------------------ PETG: Anycubic i3 Mega: Monoprice Select Mini II: Extruder: Silicon socks: EOS 200d: Videoleuchte:

XHTC S01E07 Spindle Head for PCB milling

Hello, friends,
I know you haven't heard from me in ages.
But I continued to work on the XHTC project and I have to admit that I got a bit lost ... but well, in the next few minutes I will explain to you what I have been doing in the last months and what I have done wrong ... maybe also some things right, who knows?
So what was my goal, after I had managed to design an extruder that could be changed automatically, the first step to an automatic tool change was reached.
Now I wanted to design a spindle that could produce a printed circuit board using an insulation process.
Well, and I got a little bit lost in the process ... but in order.
I needed a holder for the milling cutter and a motor to drive it, honestly I can't see and hear the topic motors anymore.
Here is a battery of all the motors I tested ... but first I had to design the holder in Fusion360, that was relatively easy.
There are several parts, 2 ball bearings as used in skateboards, a shaft with ER11 holder for the cutter and a motor that rotates the holder with a drive belt. In addition we need two pulleys from the 3D printer, the belt itself I got from Pollin and it still holds today ... and believe me, I really stressed this part :)
The motor is powered by the contact of the magnetic balls and can be controlled by the fan command.
The following points are important for the design:
1. since the cutter has a cutting surface of only 0.1mm, we need a high rotation speed, I am talking about values that should be beyond 10000 rpm, from 8000 on we should start to keep the cutting speed.
We are talking about values of 200-600 meters per minute. Just as an example, we have a diameter of 0.1mm and a speed of 10000 ... then we just reach a value of 3.14 meters per minute, that is very little. Everything below that makes our milling extremely slow and destroys the fine milling cutter.
So everything not so easy :)
2. the whole head with spindle, drive and bearing must not weigh more than 250gr, because my hypercube is not designed for bigger loads. This becomes a problem when you take a closer look at the tested motors. I could also think about giving the Hypercube 10 or 12mm rods as bearing guide, but unfortunately this has the disadvantage that the CoreXY system becomes heavier.
3. at the high speeds the vibrations have to be observed closely. Too much of it makes the milling cutter inaccurate and the whole system does not get good.
4. the run-out must not be more than 0.05, otherwise the milling is too wide and the milling cutter is only loaded on one side. This in turn has an effect on the tool life (i.e. the durability) of the milling cutter. but my dream milling cutter already costs around 10 euros.
5. the bed has to be absolutely flat and perpendicular with the XY axis, of course we will use an autoprobing, but it can't hurt because marlin here interpolates between the points.
That should be first of all enough points, which I must consider.
So let's proceed chronologically and I tell you what I had changed:
The first thing I changed... which engine do I use best?
So believe me, I have tested at least 10 engines. It must not be heavy, must reach a high speed and still be able to turn the spindle.
i can produce a transmission ratio of 2 to 1 via the drive wheels, but i have to buy this via power or speed.
First I looked at the brushed motors, clearly simply connect them to the fan output and I can control the speed. Problem with most of the motors is that they are all cheap. That means mostly no ball bearings and the shafts have some play ... does not matter but at high speeds and lateral load the motors sound very unhealthy. They are usually not designed for this, and they do not reach high speeds ... most of them stay below 10000 rpm.
Well, then I have ordered real race engines from RC model building, cool parts ... unfortunately too heavy. Such an engine weighs already loosely over 200 grams, so unfortunately also nothing.
Then I looked at my Mini Quadrocopter, they have these tiny motors with speeds of over 11000 rpm ... incredibly cool parts, I was really impressed by the performance. Unfortunately they are also a bit weak in the power range and could hardly turn the drive wheels. If you block such a small boy also while turning, the loose 2.5 Ampere pulls through these thin wires, it becomes a
Translated with (free version)

Samstag, 8. Februar 2020

QUICKI: Z-Probe in a different way

A short sign of life from me, here I show you my new contact switch. It is used to avoid the use of cables for a Z-Probe. The milling cutter touches first the floating spring steel and then the workpiece. The milling cutter serves as a conductor. This of course requires an absolutely levelled bed. You can see and download the holder as Fusion Design here. -------------- Mal ein kurzes Lebenszeichen von mir, hier zeige ich Euch meinen neuen Kontaktschalter. Dieser dient dafür um bei einem Z-Probe auf kabel verzichten zu können. Der Fräser berührt zuerst den schwebend angebrachten Federstahl und danach das Werkstück. Der Fräser dient dabei als Leiter. Das setzt natürlich ein absolut geleveltes Bett voraus. Den Halter als Fusion Design könnt ihr hier sehen und runterladen.

Samstag, 28. Dezember 2019

Mailbag: How to control a RGB Matrix 32x64 Display via ESP32

Hi, a little late for Christmas, but if you are wondering how to control an RGB matrix via ESP32, I have a solution for you. Please note in the Aduino IDE the board must be set to "WEMOS LOLIN32". Please write me a comment how you like the project and what I could do better. Here are the links to the parts: PxMatrix: TetrisClock: matrix shield esp32: ESP32: RGB Matrix: ------------------------------------------------------ PETG: Anycubic i3 Mega: Monoprice Select Mini II: Extruder: Silicon socks: EOS 200d: Videoleuchte:

Samstag, 12. Oktober 2019

QUICKI: Install another dc motor on DIY Spindle for XHTC

EN ---- This time I show you in a short video how to quickly change a motor in the spindle. By different diameters of the drive wheels one can use different motors. The change should go fast, so that you can try out configurations. For example, for engraving I need a fast but not so powerful motor, but different for drilling, a lot of power but no high revolutions. DE ----- Diesmal zeige ich Euch in einem kurzem Video wie man schnell einen Motor in der Spindle wechselt. Durch verschiedene Durchmesser der Antriebsräder kann man unterschiedliche Motoren nutzen. Das Wechseln soll schnell gehen, damit man Konfigurationen ausprobieren kann. Zum Beispiel brauche ich für das gravieren ein schnellen aber nicht so leistungsstarken Motor, anders aber beim Bohren, viel Kraft aber keine hohen Umdrehungen.

Montag, 7. Oktober 2019

QUICKI: Auto Bed Leveling with marlin and Report

EN ----- In this video you can see my spindle head for XHTC doing a car leveling, I had to change some firmware and also connect the Z-Min limit switch to the spindle. All changes are summarized in an extra branch: as base I now use the bugfix-1.1.x and the as development environment. Quicki: Ok, what is a "Quicki", not what you think :) Quickies are short video's that show you what I'm working on, in the video description you'll find more information, but without music, moderation and nice crossfades. I want to give you the opportunity to ask questions or make suggestions what you could do better. How do you like the format, good idea? DE ----- In diesem Video seht ihr mein Spindlekopf für XHTC der ein Auto Bed leveling durchführt, ich musste einiges an der Firmware ändern und auch den Z-Min Endschalter an der Spindle anschließen. Alle Änderungen sind in einem extra Branch zusammen gefasst: als Basis nutze ich jetzt den bugfix-1.1.x und die als Entwicklungsumgebung. Quicki: Ok, was ist ein "Quicki", ja nicht was du denkst :) Quickies sind kurze Video's die Euch zeigen woran ich gerade arbeite, in der Videobeschreibung stehen dann weitere Informationen, aber ohne Musik, Moderation und schöne Überblendungen. Ich will Euch hier dir Möglichkeit geben, Fragen zu stellen oder Vorschläge zu machen was man besser machen könnte. Wie findet Ihr das Format, gute Idee?

Freitag, 20. September 2019

#XHTC S01E06 ENG We did it! The first two color print with #toolchange!!!!

You will see what I have been doing the last 3 months and I can announce a success, we have the first two color print with tool change and different colors. It doesn't look so perfect, but get a cup of coffee and enjoy the show. Here are the links to the parts: ExtruderSmall Modell: Media: Magnetholder: Z-Carriage: Parts: CR10 Extruder: ------------------------------------------------------ PETG: Anycubic i3 Mega: Monoprice Select Mini II: Extruder: Silicon socks: EOS 200d: Videoleuchte:
[00:00:06] Hello folks, this is Frank from Baden-Württemberg and for my international guests of course, this is Frank from Germany, i watched my last video and have to say, my english isn't as good as my fluency. so there's an innovation today. There will always be a German video in the original sound and a dubbed English video, I will then have the text professionally translated or I will do the myself and will repeat the text then on this video, so there are then always two videos and I think with it is helped everyone and I can produce my videos a bit faster and you don't always have to hear my uhh uhh all the time, ih think it gets on your nerves a little bit. Well, what are we doing today? You'll see what I've been doing the last 3 months. [00:01:06] and I can announce a success, we have the first two color printing with tool change and different colors. It doesn't look so perfect, but get a cup of coffee and enjoy the show. [00:01:45] First let's have a look at the XHypercube, I built a lot on it and I've always been bothered by all the cables hanging around, I took an MDF board, screwed it to the back of the Hypercube and wired it up nicely. You can see it on my mobile camera, here you can see the [00:02:15] whole setup, I just need to find a show instrument. For God's sake we take this one. The row here is for the signal cable which then goes to the magnet holder and there the signals are tapped, like for example the thermostat, also the current for the heating bed is transmitted [00:02:45] as well as for the cooler, I have down here the solid-state-relay for the heating bed which runs with 220 Volt and I am very satisfied with that so far. All cables are well laid here and if you now see the computer from the front, yes, then you hardly see any flying cables and that's what I wanted to achieve with it, here are my MKS [00:03:15] towards 1.4. Board with a Marlin firmware, which I had to adapt quite a bit and two more filament rolls, one white and one black, you can't see right now, we'll be there later. Yes, otherwise there's not much to say. The printer is switched off at the moment. It's only on the USB, because the fan is quite loud here and yes, I wouldn't want to bother you with it now. In front you still see ... maybe I can put the camera a little higher. [00:03:45] Here you can see a holder for the LCD, looks really nice. Then we have here another camera, there it is and yes, I have already built a bit on it, but I think the result counts and therefore I am quite satisfied with it. So, what else did I want to show you? The Raspberry4 I have installed in the meantime and with that I made very good experience. Octoprint runs quite fluently, that must still say well and I can then only refer you to my video before it. There I have my time for actively cooling the Raspberry, there is also a nice case and a little trick how to get loud fans quietly, I think maybe quite interesting for you. Of course we now have two extruder motors, which I can maybe show you on the mobile camera too. Then we'll go back to the mobile and have a look up here, as they're actually only next to each other now I'll try to show the camera around. Yes, I think you can see quite well, there are the two extruder motors the mount, but they are in PLA´, by the way everything I see on the printer here, green is petg and yellow is PLA, you can also see on the back of the LCD here the mount itself for the profile, they are printed in PLA, the green itself PETG. I have two printers, maybe I can show them here in this cabinet. Hi, in this cabinet here I have the anycubic and up there is my little favourite printer, you can't see it now because of the tripod, up there my "monoprice select Mini" is a printer, which I can recommend in any case. Especially for projects that are not very big and with the printer I can print even the smallest details. The part doesn't cost much, somehow only 200 €, so maybe you take a look at it, yes well. The second thing I had to do was adapt the firmware Marlin a bit, we have a tool change here and for that we go to my desktop. I have to adjust something first, are we on the desktop? No. Hello Destop. Wait a minute, here you can see all the changes I've made to my Marlin lately, I'll put the link into the video description. Basically, I forcked the Marlin firmware once, a lot of people did that and then added my changes. Of course there were some things in here that had to be changed. Set the number of extruders to 2, as you can see here and then we have to say, we only have one nozzle. Why? Because we basically have 2 extruders but we only change the nozzles, the firmware doesn't know that, we change the nozzles, but we only have one if you take it exactly. Yes, it has an offset to the second one, but we only have one nozzle and there I encountered some problems, the first problem was (I'll show you the change for it), I have my hotend (see if I have the right change now). Yeah, I measured my hotend, (then we go back to the total) so I measured my hotend. So I set 190 degrees and then I measured with my multimeter that has a thermostat, which is calibrated on the hotend and I measured only 175 degrees. So, that went on like that, 15 degrees difference instead of 200°, 185° instead of 215°, 200 degrees and so on. I then informed myself, there were then the biggest ideas, one should then simply put a between resistor 100 Ohm in the line and so on on the other side I then saw an interesting video of a Chinese, who speaks English very well. ... and I can only recommend it. Here you can see very nice, I'll do it on Fulscreen, so we can see everything and this video shows how you can basically set your thermostat to oak (I don't know if you can hear the sound). You can also hear the sound, I'll just put the link into the video description then very interesting video in the green he only made one, he adjusted the firmware so that you can see the resistance value. I hope you can see my mouse here, you can see it here 970.75, this is the resistance value that is measured at a temperature of 29 degrees and he would enter it here. Exactly this is what I did and then I came on this list here, where is it? Where is it, there it is. This list here and then I built my own temperature table, so I basically heated my hotend to 50 degrees. Then I measured only 36 degrees with my multimeter and wrote this resistance value from the console and you do that with 60°, No way. Here it was probably 65°, there it was 80, there it was 100 and so on and so on and then you fight your way slowly up to 250 degrees, the remaining values are estimated here, so I will probably never print. To see the resistance value on the console, you just have to comment out this entry in the configuration Advance and then compile, then you will see this resistance value. Yes and basically the way there is actually a very simple one, you just have to compare the actual values with the target values and enter them into the table and compile them again. Of course you have to say "Attention Marlin, I have an extra table here now". I'll show you again. ... here one sees very beautifully. Unfortunately I think I could only adjust it twice, so you set the temperature sensor0 to 99, so my table is then 99 and because the heating bed has the same sensor, also to 99, we then removed it again and very important what I had always forgotten. Was in the temperature table then must be here ... that is called Thermistor table 99 , but here with the 13 must of course still be a 99. Then there was another error, I probably haven't checked in the fix for it yet and therefore you don't see this commit yet, but I'll do it later... So we have then measured the temperatures in new table packed into the Marlin, compiled. The video was very nice, very detailed and again many thanks to de, what was his name again, he has a Chinese name DA Hi SU. The video helped me a lot. I must honestly say. That's what we did, to finally realize dual colorprint, that was a rather difficult task, it wasn't that easy, I had to patch a lot within the firmware. Here are just a few examples, (now of course I'm on the wrong key again, F3 colleague) So e.g. if the printer wants to change its hotend, then it will lose contact to the thermocouple for a short time, the printer will think, "some cable is broken, I'm going to the alarm state". This is a security function, which I had to deactivate, because logically, when it takes the extruder away, ... oh best I show you simply times a video to it, where we have it then, where we have it then ... Here we have such a toolchange and there you can see wonderfully, in that moment he has no contact to the thermocouple anymore and then he has contact to the second thermocouple again, so this time takes about one to two seconds. Now it's heating up again, I go back again, then this could see in peace? If you missed it and we go to fullscreen. And here he has contact to the thermocouple again. You can see the contacts wonderfully ... show it to you gladly again, ne? So here normally at the two pins here, then the temperature is measured. This interruption then causes the printer to go into alarm state and you have to do a reset and tell it that everything is fine. Then it goes on, of course we don't want that, that's why the variable HEATER_0_MINTEMP had to be set to zero and so that it, if no thermistor is connected, doesn't go into the alarm state. If nothing is connected the LCD shows 0°. So you can say here, the minimum temperature should be 0 degrees and then it does not go into the alarm state, I had to adjust that. Then there was another huge problem. I have to look again, where it has ... there I tried here then to ignore the M104 and 109 here, because we make a Tool Chnage. We have a T0 and T1. T0 is the first hotend and T2 the second and CURA always tried to preheat the second hotend in the certainty that it will be changed soon. But that caused me to heat my hotend to 200 degrees, then the command came with T1 and then it was reduced to 175°, of course we don't want that. Of course we want to keep the temperatures in the hot end and then I tried to ignore these commands M104 and M190 T1 in the firmware, but I took that out again, because I found a better solution for it, which I can show you now. So here we have our Cura, I always use that and I had to use a little trick here, a post process in plugin I built here, it's a "search & replace". Before the gcode is saved and you just search for M104 or 109 spaces T and this is then commented out the \1 takes the values of the parenthesis and inserts them there, so there is "M104 T" and the rest of the command. So this works very well, we can have a look at a G-Code like this and here you see, he heats the bed with m140 S60 and then waits until the bed reaches 60 degrees, then he takes the hotend, heats it up to 200 degrees, but then he tries to heat the second hotend to 175 degrees, which in my firmware has the consequence that my first hotend is regulated down to 175 degrees. Well, you can't have anything against it, because here he says m109s 200 again, so first hotend is heated to 200 degrees again, but then unfortunately this command comes here and then it's heated down to 175° again. -------------------------- My solution is a very simple one, we simply comment out these commands everywhere, so we are then on the safe side. It also works great because we don't need these commands for the second hotend. My plan how we will heat up the hotend in the parking position later, I explain to you at the end of this video. So then we're already in the CURA, then we can continue what I had to adjust in the CURA everything so that such a pressure works at all. The first thing, of course, is that we have to set up a new printer. The two extruders have, you can then enter this in the settings and here you can say "Number of Extruders" two at once, then there are a few minor changes e.g. that we have to start the fan or the cooling at any time, I come to that right away and we then have here an extruder and the second extruder and each extruder has a start code and end code. To find out where this is stored in the GCODE, I made myself an identifier and we can have a look at it in the produced GCODE, then we just have to search for Start Extruder ... ---- So here you can see it wonderfully. So here the first extruder is started and more interesting is ENDEXTRUDER, that's what we're looking for. At this point I have to search for PARKPOSITION. Ok we found that, there is a reason taken, the GCODE in here is simply inserted here at this point. And there you can also see here "START EXTRUDER 1" and you can use that very well for the analysis, where what is done how, here mostly a retract and so on, we come right to. Well, let's have a look at my improved design, first I have to turn on the camera, because it always goes out somehow, don't know why it is. ... then I'll show you my improved design for the narrow extruder, which I think has become quite nice, let's go to work. So, here we have basically my first two designs, so here we have the T0 and here we have the T1. The T0 is empty, there's a certain reason, I'll show you that right away and present you my solution. Maybe you can see it already, first of all I made some minor improvements. So that the old design here is the new design a few minor improvements made e.g. this wall here. This one is thinner, then I made two small bridges here, so that you can put the cable here, then there is this channel here, which goes through here and around here then the cable of the thermostat as well as the heating cartridge can lead through. You see the extruder is already in use, I took it out of the parking position and showed you, if someone doesn't know the extruder yet, that's actually quite easy, we always have VCC requests about a magnetic ball and here we have the GROUND request from the hotend. Here we have the GROUND from the fan. So we are able to control the fan via PWM as well as the hotend. To measure the temperature now, we have this small circuit board, where the golden pogo pins are attached. As soon as this part is pulled into the magnet holders, they also have contact. Why all this? Now you see for yourselves, it is very compact. There are no wires flying through the area and so all my HEADER will be. ---- I plan to add a SPINDLE here and so on, that will be in the next videos, but first it's a very simple design. After the first test prints I had to realize that petg is not as resistant as I thought. If you take a closer look, then we'll see here, maybe show it to you. Actually I had a pair of tweezers here somewhere, but I'll show it with my drill, you can see it here ... we go times we more near. I only hope that the focus remains the same. So you can see very nice here, the whole part is melted down, here you can see it wonderfully. The HOTEND slowly melted in here because it was at 200 degrees and the fan was off. Yes, that's a bit suboptimal, because then the height also changed and so on, so yes that the HOTEND melts in here was almost normal. My solution, which I'll show you right on the screen, is a screw connection. That was of course clear, that here is still that old design the new design hangs in the printer, but well no problem, then I show you that once on the computer. ---- Here we have the new design and to show you this a bit better, I can turn on the analysis and then we change the cut surface a bit. Exactly the same and basically you can see it quite well here, there are now holes in the back where it is for a big and long M3 screw, then there is this sleeve 10 mm long, these are professional distance sleeves, which then hold the hotend a little further away from the case, so it can no longer come to the fact that it melts somewhere. The second condition is, of course, that the fan must always run. Yes, that's very important the fan here makes sure that the hotend can't melt into it. Here you see also again wonderfully, perhaps I can adjust the cut analysis a little better. ---- So you see wonderfully which way the cooling air takes, the air comes in here would cool the HOTEND ... then drives on here, then down here and then cools the component. I also had a photo for you, there you can see my test, which I did for it. I think that was the second one exactly, so I measured the temperature at the exit of the cooler with the fan running. So I could see that at about 200 degrees the part gets about 30 degrees warm, that's just a test setup that I quickly took a picture of to show you. Then I just heated the hotend up to 200°. Yes and then the temperature is measured here. 30 degrees is completely in order. Sufficient also, thus the cooling functions perfectly. Of course I put the design back in the video description and then you can have a closer look at it and of course the corresponding STL, but I open an extra page in Thingiverse and in which you can find the extruder small. So you can print it out yourself. If you like. ---- So what else do we have I've made such a nice list, I've already told you almost everything, but of course we would have to look again, what are the results? Then come with me to my workplace. I hope it still works quickly. Not that my camera ... yes looks good, only that I must go out here a little bit. All right. I hope it's still sharp, let's have a look ... but it looks really sharp. Come to the results, they're very funny, so basically I just tried to print a monochrome cube to see if it works. At the end it came out ... --- You see there were problems with the filament with the X here, there are so different waves in here. At the end that was due to the insufficient temperature, as already said instead of 190 degrees it has 175°, there he pressed the cold filament through, ... Unfortunately we have no reflection here ... but the back of the one from the cube, I already liked it very much. Well, that was a very good quality. Well then the temperature better adjusted. Then it came out. Looks much better already. The edges are sharp ... The only problem was I had lines back here. One could think "Yes well, that's layer shifting" but if it was shifting, then these lines would also appear on the opposite side. But if they don't do it here, I have to find out what that could be. And we'll get that out too, but for now these are actually quite nice results. Then I dared to do the two color print, my first results were accordingly. Here, this is a calibration scale, where you can basically read the offset, which unfortunately doesn't work, I tried it again. --- It also didn't work properly, especially since the black PLA wasn't cool enough, I have to think of something that he first prints a line somewhere in black and then the actual printing, I have to find a solution. But I'd like to print a two-color print. Well, I said to myself "just print a real object", that's what I did. Has a very special name. I show it to you times, there's then also a very small video of it and I would show you that also gladly. But first you see here wonderfully. Here was also such a black part, but then unfortunately dropped off ... That is the Y-axis and that is the x-axis and here we see that I have a wonderful offset ... to be honest, I can't remember the right position on the printer. I know, only I had to enter "-1.5" millimeters in cura and then I could compensate the offset to some extent. So and then last a two colored cube, because I thought to myself, there you can wonderfully measure the offset. It doesn't look so bad at first sight, the only problem I had, you may not be able to see it at all, but here there is an offset from black to white by maybe only 0.3mm on the other side but not. I guess that's because the two pla's are from different manufacturers, maybe you have to regulate the flow of the PLA's a bit. But I guess it doesn't look bad for now. The problem with the whole thing is the melting and I want to show you a video about it, but first I want to briefly explain, as I said before, the fan always has to run. Yes, everything is cooled and the hotend doesn't melt into the case, so when the printer is finished with the first color, it can't be used immediately ... ... put the part in the parking position, but have to wait until the thermostat on the hotend has only 60 degrees. Then he puts the extruder in the parking position, fetches the other one and then has to wait again until it is heated from 50 degrees to 200 degrees. You can imagine, it will take a while. I'll show you a video now and the problem with it. such a pressure lasts forever with this system, because he needs certainly two minutes to cool down from 200 degrees to 60 degrees, then he puts the first in the parking position gets the second and of course waits until it is heated up again to 200 degrees, so we need a PREHEAT mechanism at the parking position. ---- Yes, and I'll show you that later, but first I'll show you in a video how it basically happens. That I have prepared for you, I need of course first my desktop. Yes you can see it wonderfully. I have prepared a video "waittochange" and there you can see the ToolChange wonderfully. Here I already hold the finger on the reset button, if something does not work, so he waits until he is down to 50 degrees, then he gets the second extruder and waits again now at this point until the hot end then 200 degrees I show you again, because this video is a bit short. So he waits now until he has 50 degrees, deposits the first one, picks up the second one, the temperature is now about 30 degrees and now he waits until the hotend has heated up to 200 degrees. ... Here you can also see the screws I mentioned earlier. I have to manage that this one or let's say the one that was just fetched is preheated in the parking position and I have a little idea for that. The problem here is also, if I preheat the fan in its parking position, then of course the fan must also run, because otherwise it would melt down again into its housing, of course we don't want that ... I need the workplace ... there isser ... of course we do not want that and therefore I have come up with something. And that's a new FRAMEHOLDER, these are just examples now, I changed it a bit. I hope you can see that. ---- I'm gonna go a little closer. Nah, unfortunately that is no longer possible. Well, then it has to work like this, so we have a small copper contact here which (if the holder is pushed into the parking position) has contact to the washer at this point. Here the contact is closed, there's a small hole, you can imagine it like this, with a small wire the washer is ... or I'll show you directly on a real extruder. Here you can see it perhaps better, so now we have here the two black screws, which connect the extruder with 12 Volt, not too strong 12 Volt I come to it immediately and heat this up to about 175°. Then we have here this copper line, which is also connected up here and it has a connection to this washer, which controls the fan and this has the consequence that this fan only runs in this position and all this I do then with such an old power supply device, if you take a closer look you see here 12 Volt with 1.5 Ampere, I have already tried this. The extruder is then heated to about 175°. You can imagine it like this. So it's better, of course the wires are connected to 12V. Not that people say I show the kids how to connect the hot end to 220 volts, so and we have 12 volts 1.5 ampere here. I think you can still see that and this power supply is so weak and then turns off that we can expect a temperature of about 175 degrees here, without having to check by thermostat the hotend is preheated. ---- After the TOOLCHANGE it only takes five seconds until it is back at 200° and then we can continue printing. so this is more efficient but only comes in the next video Of course I'm happy that you spent the whole time with me now, I'm looking again fast I forgot something ... not really, I have shown you everything I have. I hope you really had a lot of fun? What do you think of the German video and for the international guests, what do you think of the dubbed version? I am very curious. That would interest me already. Otherwise I wish you a nice winter season. Now we all sit again in our basements and tinker and make and I am happy more and more if the weather gets worse. Then you don't have a guilty conscience anymore when the sun is shining out there, like now and is sitting here now and making a video. I wish you all the best, beautiful autumn and good luck.